The enigmatic temple of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

Preah Khan of Kompong Svay (not be mistaken with Preah Khan temple  in Angkor), also called Prasat Bakan by the locals,  is a remote archeological site located 100 km from Siem Reap as the crow flies  in Preah Vihear province at the eastern end  on the ancient royal road from Angkor.

Preah Khan  is the single biggest temple complex built during the Khmer Empire occupying an impressive footprint of about 22 kilometers square, 11 times larger than Angkor Wat and 2 times larger  than the city of Angkor Thom. Because of its remote location  (more than 200 km one way  from Siem Reap including about 70 km of unpaved road) it  receives  less than 10 visitors daily.

The layout of the temple is unique compared  to the other sites  in Angkor as it is oriented northeast. It has been proposed that the temple is aligned with the raising sun during thee summer solstice.

A  large baray of 3 km long  lies on the east with a temple called Preah Thkol in the middle similar to the West Mebon in Angkor.  It was built between the 10th and 13th centuries in  different stages during the reigns of Kings Suryavarman I, II and Jayavarman VII. The influence of  Jayarvaman VII  is clearly visible in  Prasat Preah Stun which has with a four-faced tower similar to the Bayon temple (see picture below).

 

Rediscovery

The rediscovery of Preah Khan is credited to French explorer and artist  Louis Delaporte who lead a expedition  there in 1873. At the end of their visit they took many statues which are now at the Guimet museum in Paris : among them, a naga  garuda and an elephant statue from  Preah Damrei (see picture below).

Because of its remote location and lack of security,  the site was badly sacked during the 1980’s and 1990’s and even more recently in 2003. Even so, some  beautiful pieces like doors and lintels are still there. The causeway crossing the moat (mostly dry like in Beng Mealea) has many garuda carvings on both sides.

Exploring the site can be quite difficult because of the dense vegetation there and the absence of clear paths.

 

Recent  archeological missions

The Cambodian Archaeological Lidar Initiative (CALI)  known for his groundbreaking discovery of the first Khmer empire city, Mahendravarpata, in Phnom Kulen and  in 2014 did a survey of  Preah Khan in 2015 and confirmed the previous layout  of the temple. They confirmed that Preah Khan was an important iron smelting center at the height of the Khmer Empire. 90 structures were identified within the four enclosures of the temple.

Another project called The Two Buddhist Towers  lead by a multidisciplinary team of researchers (UCLA, University of Illinois, University College London, EFEO,…) aims to study the transition from Mahāyāna to Theravāda Buddhism at Preah Khan did some excavations in 2015 and 2016. Three Chinese coins dating from the 10th and 11th  century were found confirming the importance of his  site during the Khmer Empire.

LIDAR preah khan kompong svay

LIDAR image of  Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

Main entrance of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photo tour

Buddha niche at Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

Atmospheric entrance in Preah Kompong Svay

 

Garudas below the main bridge of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

luis delaporte preah khan kompong svay

The same garuda bridge by Louis Delaporte in 1873

 

Remain of a lion statue

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Laterite towers in Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Beautiful door at the main temple of Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Temple ruin in preah khan kompong svay second enclosure

 

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Temple ruin in preah khan kompong svay second enclosure

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

One of the two elephant statues remaining statue at Preah Damrei. Louis Delaporte took one back to France in 1873.

 

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Bayon like temple in Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Beautiful Naga with Garuda at Preah Damrei

 

Tree growing on one of the temples of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Devata at Preah Damrei

 

preah khan kompong svay photography

Preah Stun , a surprising Bayon look alike temple in the jungle

 

 

 

Preah Khan of Kompong Svay is best visited during the dry season when the unpaved road is in fairly good condition.  It is a 1-day trip  from Siem Reap  that can be combined with a visit to Koh Ker or Beng Mealea. A 2-day trip with a visit to Preah Vihear can also be arranged. If you like to do a private photography tour of this enigmatic and beautiful  temple, please contact me.

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hoi photo gallery

World Heritage Historic Houses of Hoi An Central Vietnam

hoi an old city houses

Hoi An is a charming and picturesque little city  located near the coastline in Central Vietnam. Once a major trading port between the 16th and 18th centuries, it managed to retain to this day some of his architectural heritage. The old city spreads on  30 hectares and  is listed on the UNESCO Word Heritage since 1999.

Although many of the 1000 old  houses in Hoi An  are now converted to tailor, souvenir, coffee shops and restaurants due the booming of both international and national tourism (more than 2 million tourist in 2016), an handful of preserved houses are open to the public. To  visit them, you need to buy a 120 000 VND ticket (about USD 5),   valid for only 5 world heritage sites. This post lists all  heritage houses you can visit with one pass.

I would recommend  to start your visit around 8 am to avoid  group tours that can spoil your experience and make it difficult to take pictures. The advantage also is to be able to use a tripod as the interior of some houses is really dark. Except for the ancient house, each site is  only few  minutes apart by walk.

 

Tan Ky house (101 Nguyen Thai Hoc St)

Named after  its builder Tan Ky, this house  is the  most popular heritage house in Hoi An, also the first one to be listed on the national heritage of Vietnam in 1985. Built in the late 18th century, its  architecture is   a combination of   Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese styles. Two entrances are available,  one facing the river but unfortunately the first  floor is not open to the general public. It is not the best house to take interior pictures as often crowded with groups.

A short five  minutes introduction is given but some members of the founding family  before you can wander around. On one wall, water levels due to floods are recorded, the last one being  in December 2016 which lasted for 4 days.

Tan ky old house hoi an photography tours

Interior of Tan Ky old house in Hoi An

 

tan ky old house hoi an

Old bed displayed in Tan Ky old house

 

Phung Hung House (4 Nguyen Thi min Khai St)

Not far from the famous Japanese covered bridge,  Phung Hung is a two-stories private house built in 1780 with a combination of  Japanese (four-sided roof), Chinese and Vietnamese styles. A  balcony with a nice vintage on the street below and on the room below is accessible. A small tour with few explanations is given to you when you enter the premises. It  is one the best house to  take interior pictures because it is quite large and bright. A shop selling embroideries is located on the second floor.

 

Phung Hung old house Hoi An

Interior of Phung Hung old house in Hoi An

 

Phung-Hung heritage house house Hoi An photowalk

Interior of Phung Hung old house in Hoi An

 

Phung-Hung heritage house house Hoi An

Interior of Phung Hung old house in Hoi An

 

 Quan Thang  house (77 Tran Phu St)

Built by a Chinese merchant in the late 17th century, Quan Thang  is a one-story shop-house with some interesting architectural details especially the teak walls. No explanations about the house was given by family during the visit. The back of the house is private so photographic opportunities are quite  limited.

 

Quan Thang Hoi An photowalk

Interior of Quan Thang old house

 

Ho Chi Minh portrait

Portrait of Ho Chi Minh in Quan Thang house

 

quan thang house ancestor portrait

Portrait of an ancestor at Quan Thang house altar

 

Duc An old house (129 Tran Phu St)

Duc An is  an heritage house built in 1850 with some timber carvings. The house was a bookstore at the end of the 19th century and Chinese   medicine dispensary  during the 20th century. Unfortunately a souvenir shop is now located on the back of the house thus restricting photography. There was no guide during the visit.

 

 

Duc An old house Hoi An

Interior of Duc An old house

 

Duc An Hoi An photography tour

Interior of Duc An heritage house in Hoi An

 

Duc An medicine dispensary

Old medicine dispensary in Duc An old house

 

Tran Family Chapel (21 Le Loi St)

Tran chapel is a beautiful house built   in 1804 by  Tran Tu Nhac  with purpose  to worship his ancestors. Architecture reflects Japanese (five  columns), Chinese (turtle roof) and Vietnamese (bow and arrow)  styles. The house has three entrances, a beautiful waiting room leading to the atmospheric ancestors’altar with stone tablets. A shop is located  at the back with some interesting Yin Yang coins and few Piastres from the Indochina period. The guided visit was one of the best of all the houses.

 

tran chapel family hoi an photography

Waiting room in the Tran Chapel family

 

tran chapel family hoi an photography

Waiting room in the Tran Chapel family

 

Tran Tu Nhac, the founder of the Tran Chapel

 

Ancestors of the Tran family

 

floor tiles heritage house hoi an

Beautiful floor tiles in Tran Chapel family

 

than chapel Hoi An photowalk

Detail of a drape in Tran Chapel Hoi An

 

yin yang coins Hoin An

Yin Yang coins in Tran Chapel Hoi An

 

 

 

Ancient House (104 Thai Phien St)

One of my favorite heritage house situated in the northern part  of the old town. Built  250 years ago  on one floor with 4 rooms  it has an unique  Vietnamese architecture. A cluster of beautiful red lanterns are hanging in the entrance room and carved pillars are well preserved.  Hosts are  quite friendly and invite you for tea and biscuits to reply to questions you might have. Entrance is free so if  if you do not want to buy anything from the shop,  a donation box is available. Ancient House receives only few visitors daily so  you are likely to be alone during your visit.

 

ancient house hoi an

Ancient house interior Hoi An

 

ancient house hoi an red lanterns

Red lanterns in ancient house Hoi An

 

carved pillar ancient house hoi an

Beautiful carved pillar in Ancient House

 

red lanterns ancient house

Red lanterns in Hoi An Ancient House

 

ancient house hoi an photowalk

Glass window detail in ancient house Hoi An

 

 

Diep Dong Nguyen house (82 Nguyen Thai Hoc St)

This old house built late 19th century has been converted to a museum displaying ceramics  and furniture. Of particular interest is the wooden facade of the house with no windows. You do not need the old town ticket to visit the premises.

 

Diep Dong Nguyen house Hoi An

The beautiful wooden facade of Diep Dong Nguyen house

 

Diep Dong Nguyen house Hoi An photowalk

Porcelain displayed at Diep Dong Nguyen house

 

Diep Dong Nguyen house Hoi An photo walk

Resident of the house burning incenses for prayer