Jayavarman VII’s Faces of Stone

jayavarman faces angkor
If you have visited the temples of Angkor, you probably still remember the impressive face towers of Bayon temple.  These enigmatic and slightly smiling faces carved in sandstone are the signature of the  king Jayavarman VII. This design is very important in the  Angkorian architecture and unique among all archaeological sites of South East Asia.

To this day,  the meaning of these faces is still a mystery: some authors are connecting these faces to Shiva, Brahma, Avalokiteshvara,  Buddha or to the King Jayavarman II himself.

So how many faces can be found in Cambodia? 300 is  probably a good estimate and with Bayon alone counting for 200 of them. These faces can be found on the side of  towers of  temples  in Angkor and beyond, some in very remote area.  If you want to visit all the sites with face towers, it is a long  journey that we take you hundreds of kilometers on both side of Angkor. We found that face towers are the most spectacular and enigmatic in remote temples where they are still surrounded  by jungle and hidden away from tourists. In Angkor, the best way to see the face towers is to join us for a day of adventure with  e-bikes.

 

BAYON TEMPLE (JAYAVARMAN)

Face towers temple by design, Bayon has an unique and imposing architecture. Whether you look at it from far or close from the upper terrace, the faces carved in sandstone are unique and best seen early morning or the evening at the golden hour.

Bayon temple is the with the highest concentration of face towers and is also the top 3 visited temple in Angkor.  Many photography opportunities exist from the upper terrace as it is possible to frame the faces with many compositions. It then become quite a game of composition for photographer to find new angles and play with the window openings.

 

Note: From January 2020, the upper terrace of the Bayon temple will be closed to the public due to the start of a restoration undertaken by Japanese Government Team for Safeguarding Angkor (JASA). The exact duration is not known but we can expect it to last few years (3 to 5 years) as it is a major archeological work

 

Bayon temple face Angkor photography tours

 

bayon faces

 

bayon stone faces golden hour

GATES OF ANGKOR THOM

 

Angkor Thom is an ancient fortified city of 3 square kilometers with five entrances and .surrounded by a moat It was also the last capital of the Khmer Empire. Each gate has  a  20-meter tower with 4 faces and 4  three-headed elephant. All  20 faces are intact but n the the last 5 years, some faces have been secured by metallic cables.

 

angkor thom gate face jayavarman

Face carved on Angkor Thom West Gate in Angkor Thom Cambodia. Angkor Thom was the last capital of the Khmer empire during the 12th century.Selective color

 

 

 

 

 

TA SOM TEMPLE

 

 

Ta Som is a small temple located just east of the Preah Khan Baray or (Jayatataka) with two face towers. The  East gopura is photogenic although the strangler fig does not grow directly around the faces.  50 years ago when the number of tourists were very low, the western gopura was one of the most famous spot in Angkor with a tree growing around one face. Unfortunately the tree was cleared up in the 60’s.

 

ta som temple face tower ta som hidden face

 Photo credit: Luc Ionesco.

BANTEAY KDEI TEMPLE

 

Few hundred meters from Ta Prohm, lies the less visited temple of Banteay Kdei (the citadel of chambers ) with  four entrances, most visitors are familiar with the eastern and western ones.

 

 

banteay kdei entrance

 

 

TA PROHM TEMPLE

 

Built in the 12 century by Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his father, Ta Phrom is one  of the most famous temple with Angkor Wat and Bayon, Ta Prohm has four entrances with tower faces. The eastern entrance gate is partially collapsed and unfortunately  do not have any standing faces. The  western  is intact but the most interesting one  is the less visited northern entrance. At the end of 2017, a side of the tower  collapses as a tree holding the structure went down because of a  landslide. The gate was partially restored  in June 2018.

 

 

 

ta prohm temple gate restoration

 

ta prohm temple gate

 

Northern gopura before the landslide

ta phrom temple northern gopura

 

 

BEYOND ANGKOR

 

BANTEAY CHHMAR TEMPLE

Banteay Chhmar is a large temple complex in Banteay Meanchey Province, nearby the Thai border. Research has shown that Banteay Chhmar  had originally  28 face towers, but because its remote  location it was not saved from the jungle like Bayon at the beginning of the 20th century and many structures collapsed in the last 100 years.  Its proximity to Thailand made it also a target for looting. Today, some beautiful face towers remain in the temple itself and in its satellite temples. To read more about Banteay Chhmar please have a look at our blogpost.

banteay chhmar temple

banteay chhmar face tower

face tower in banteay chhmar temple

 

 

PREAH KHAN KOMPONG SVAY

 

Preah Khan is probably one of the most remote Angkorian temple built under the reign of Jayavarman VII. This huge complex has only a small temple with a face tower. To learn more about this temple, please have a look at our blog entitled the enigmatic temple of Peah Khan of  Kompong Svay.

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Sri Lanka Tea Plantations

sri lanka ceylon tea plantation

Sri Lanka tea plantations: history

The history of tea plantations  (Camellia sinensis) in Sri Lanka is quite  an interesting one. After cinnamon, coffee was for 200 years was the lucrative crop on the island of Ceylon controlled by the British Empire . In 1869, crops were devastated by a fungi called Hemileia vastatrix and by 1890 nearly all crops were wiped out. After the collapse of the coffee industry, tea estates took over in Sri Lanka.

Tea from China was first introduced by British in 1824 but all really started in 1867 when Scotsman James Taylor planted tea bushes in Kandy district and found out that the climate of the central highlands (humidity, cool temperatures, rainfalls) was suitable for the production of high-quality tea. This will become the first commercial tea estate in Ceylon and tea plantations boomed 1880 onward.Plantations were taken over by the government in 1960’s and then got privatized.

Nowadays thousands of tea plantations are operating in Sri Lanka and visiting one or more will one of the highlight of your trip in Sri Lanka.

 

tea estate landscape sri lanka

Tea estate landscape

tea estate plantation sri lanka

Highlands Sri Lanka tea plantation in the evening mist

 

Tea production in Sri Lanka

tea processing sri lanka

Inside a tea factory in Sri Lanka

 

 

 

Tea is produced in 14 districts in Sri Lanka (out of 25), covering more than 200,000 hectares of land. Current annual production of tea in Sri Lanka is above 300,000 tons, making Sri Lanka the fourth largest producer of tea in the world after China, India and Kenya. It is worth noting that contrary to China which produces green tea, Sri Lanka produces mainly black tea using the orthodox method. The most intensive labor tasks are of course planting, maintaining and plucking the tea leaves. It is estimated that the tea sector employs more than 1 million people and contribute 0.9 % to the GDP in 2014.

The main planting regions are Nuwara Eliya, Dimbula, Kandy, Uda Pussellawa, Uva Province, Galle, Matara. They can be classified by their altitude: up-country (above 1,200 m) : Nuwara Eliya,Udapussellawa, Uva, Dimbula. Kandy district is considered already as mid-country (between 600 and 1,200 m). Low-country tea estates (below 600 m) such as Sabaragamuwa and Ruhuna. Interestingly, more tea is produced from the lower altitude regions than in the highlands.

 

 

Tea grading

 

 

different tea qualities sri lanka

Tea (orthodox method) grading

If you visit one of the tea factory, you will notice that the equipment is quite old but than most of the tasks of selecting and processing tea are now done by machines. Tea is graded at the factory in different qualities: BOPF (Broken Orange Pekoe Fannings Tea), mostly used in tea bags, it has bright reddish liquor and a strong taste. OP (Orange Pekoe), made of larger and twisted leaves, it has a lighter taste and golden reddish color.

Golden tips is a rare variety of Ceylon white tea made of tea leaf buds. It is an expensive grade selling at around USD 500 per kilo. Silver tips are also a premium grade of Ceylon tea made from tea leaf buds plucked by hand and dried in the sunlight.

 

 

 

 

 

black ceylon tea

Young tea buds in plantation

 

sri lanka tea plantations, tea pickers

Group of tea pluckers climbing the steep tea estate hillsides

tea picker sri lanka

Tea plucker climbing a hilly tea estate with her sack

 

 

Many of the tea pickers are women and they have the laborious task to carefully choose young tea buds which will be used in the tea processing . It is a physical job as tea bushes are grown on steep hillsides. These area can be dangerous also are prone to landslide and many snakes are live inside. There also quite a lot of work in grooming in the estates to remove by hand the herbs to to avoid the use of pesticides.

elderly tea picker sri lanka

Elderly tea plucker in the highlands

 

tea picker sri lanka

Tea worker grooming the tea bushes

 

 

 

 

Tea estates are part of the iconic landscapes of Sri Lanka and traveling by train between Kandy and Ella give a good idea of the size of their size. They are also an indefinite source of inspiration for photographers. Many companies are proposing tour where you can learn about the cultivation and processing of tea, of course you can taste different teas and by them at the shop.

 

 

tea tasting sri lanka

Ceylon black tea tasting

 

The future of Ceylon Tea

In the 21st century, tea production in Sri Lanka faces many challenges like changing weather patterns due to El Nino, difficulty to find workforce in the estate and an increasing cost of production. The labor shortage issue is nothing new and has been present since the beginning when British brought Tamil from South India to work in plantations as Sinhalese did not want to work there. Sri Lanka faces a tough competition from Kenya which also produces black tea. However tea from Sri Lanka is of high quality with unique flavors so it should stay a main player in the years to come.

ceylon tea plantation sri lanka

Morning view in the tea estate

 

ceylon black tea estate

Ceylon tea bushes in estate