Rice Harvesting Cambodia

rice harvesting cambodia

Rice  fields are omnipresent in  Cambodia’s landscapes bringing their touch of green and gold almost all year long. Also called the “white gold” of Cambodia, rice is a staple food for Cambodians that they eat  every day. It is estimated that rice takes up to 90% of the cultivated areas.

 

golden rice fields Cambodia

Freshly cut bundles of rice drying on the field

 

Bundles of rice drying

Rice cultivation follows several processes which are: soil preparation, transplantation, harvesting. Cambodians are believed to have grown rice for more than 2000 years. The rice industry in Cambodia  has had a turbulent history following the rise and the fall of the Khmer Empire in addition to the more recent periods of wars and occupations. During the French colonial period, in the 1950’s, Battambang province was the hub of the rice trade, and a railway was constructed between Battambang and Phnom Penh. However, a bit part of the rice farming infrastructure had been destroyed during the Khmer Rouge regime. Although Cambodia became a rice exporting country in the late  90’s, the rice industry still have to overcome many challenges  in productivity, logistics, transportation, labor, and research. Despite these challenges, rice farming accounts for  more than 20% of the country’s GDP today.

 

🌾TRIVIA | RICE IN KHMER

Did you know that in the Khmer language, rice is referred to by three different names depending on its state: uncooked, cooked, or growing in the fields? Rice holds immense significance in Cambodia, to the extent that it is synonymous with the act of eating.

អង្ករ

[ong-gor] uncooked rice

បាយ

[baay] cooked rice, also means to eat

ស្រូវ

[srow] growing rice

 

 

🌾CAMBODIAN JASMINE RICE

In 2022, the Cambodian Jasmine rice won for the fifth consecutive year the World’s Best Rice Award at the  World Rice Conference. Cambodian Jasmine rice is a premium long-grain rice produced during the wet season. There are four varieties: Phka Malis, Phka Rumduol, Phka Rumdeng, Phka Romeat. Because of its success, Phka Rumduol is the second-most exported variety of rice from Cambodia. Phka Rumduol  is grown in Takeo, Phnom Penh and Battambang provinces. The quality of Cambodian rice is evaluated by experts based on several parameters, including:

  • grain moisture content.
  • grain weight, length  and width.
  • grain elongation after cooking.

 

🌾RICE FARMING IN CAMBODIA

Rice in Cambodia is grown in four different ecosystems namely: rainfed lowland, rainfed upland, deepwater, and irrigated, rainfed lowland being with 70% the major ecosystem used in Cambodia.
Siem Reap has quite a lot of paddy fields in the lands bordering the temples of Angkor or in the flooded lands close to the Tonle Sap but overall, produces much less rice than other provinces like Battambang, also known as the ‘rice bowl’ of Cambodia.
The amount of rice exported by Cambodia is recently on the rise and was estimated at 690.829 metric tons in 2020 (source: http://www.crf.org.kh/). This might look as an impressive number but it doesn’t allow Cambodia to rank within the top 10 world rice producers, each of which produces several millions of metric tons annually. Cambodia grows about 2000 varieties of rice.

 

 

🌾RICE HARVESTING SEASON IN CAMBODIA

In numerous provinces across Cambodia, two crops of rice are harvested every year; the first one harvested in November – December coincides with the monsoon or wet-season rice crops. The process involves sowing rice seeds at the onset of the first rain during the rainy season, typically around June. Wet-season  crops are the ones  producing the most rice.

The second harvest takes place  in February and is dedicated to the dry-season crops where farmers plant the rice at the end of the monsoon, typically around November. In the lands bordering the Tonle Sap lake, up to four crops can be grown every year but dry season rice farming in the seasonally flooded lands of the Tonle Sap is becoming more and more challenging in recent years. The production of rice  during the dry season represents only about 20% of the total rice production in Cambodia.

 

 

🌾RICE FARMING PRACTICES IN CAMBODIA

As in other part of of Asia, such as Bali, rice farming practices in Cambodia rely heavily  on human labor. Rice farmers often work barefoot in the flooded  paddy fields  just wearing socks.

 

Slash and Burn

Slash-and-burn , has been a traditional method of cultivating rice fields in many parts of Asia for centuries. This practice involves clearing a plot of land by cutting down vegetation and burning it, which temporarily enriches the soil with nutrients from the ash. Farmers then plant rice in the cleared area for one or two growing seasons. Once the soil fertility declines, they move to a new plot and repeat the process, allowing the previous area to regenerate naturally over several years. While this method has sustained communities for generations, it has become increasingly problematic due to environmental concerns such as deforestation and greenhouse gas emissions. Cambodian rice farmers are using this technique although it is not as common as Indonesia or Thailand.

 

slash burn rice fields

 

Plowing rice fields

Preparing the soil before rice planting or transplanting involves a crucial step known as plowing. The objective of plowing rice fields is to eliminate grass and weeds while exposing pests and diseases to sunlight for their eradicationPlowing also break soil clods into smaller masses and improve the texture of the soil. Nowadays in Cambodia, tractors have largely replaced buffalos for plowing and it is extremely rare to see farmers still using buffalos for that purpose.

worker plowing rice fields in Cambodia

Rice farmer plowing a field  before rice transplanting  during the raining season

 

 

Rice transplanting in Cambodia

 

 

young rice crops in a nursery

Young rice crops in a nursery

rice transplanting cambodia

Standing rice seedling bundle ready to be transplanted

 

rice bundles transplantation

Freshly made seedling bundle ready to be transplanted

Rice transplantation or rice transplanting is a important rice farming practice that involves carefully moving young rice seedlings from a nursery to the main field. This method begins with nurturing seeds in a controlled nursery environment until they reach the ideal age of 20-30 days.

Several steps are involved the first being to  carefully uproot the young rice plants from the nursery, grasping them firmly by their stems. To cleanse the roots of clinging soil, the farmers dip the rice stems into water and shake them vigorously. Sometimes, they even gently tap the roots against their feet to dislodge stubborn soil clumps.

 

The second step, is to gather the stems together by  forming neat bundles. To secure these bundles, the farmers  use dried herbs  as natural ties. A wooden elevated table sometime used to facilitate this process. This traditional bundling technique not only keeps the seedlings organized but also facilitates easier handling and transportation to the main paddy field where they will be replanted.

With  patience and meticulous care, rice farmers then delicately replant bundles of rice by hand into the soil moistened by the first rains of the monsoon season. Sometime, rice is transplanted in shallow waters. It is important to maintain a certain spacing between the seedlings (15 to 20 centimeters) to give  numerous benefits such as better weed control and higher yields. Despite its advantages, rice transplanting presents several challenges. The process is labor-intensive and time-consuming, requiring a significant workforce and optimal weather conditions for success. Maintaining consistent spacing and plant density across large fields can be difficult when done manually, potentially affecting crop uniformity. In rainfed areas, delayed rainfall can lead to seedlings becoming too old in the nursery, reducing their vigor upon transplanting.  Transplanting machines were actually introduced in Cambodia recently  but we did not see any used around Siem Reap.

Agri-Smart Cambodia has developed and brought to Cambodia rice transplantation machines. These machines offer significant time and labor savings: using the transplanter, known as the Eli Rice Seeder, a single operator can plant one hectare in just 30 minutes. In contrast, traditional methods require a team of 30-40 workers laboring for an entire day to cover the same area.

 

 

rice farmers planting rice cambodia

Rice farmers transplanting rice at the beginning of the monsoon

Rice farmers transplanting rice at the beginning of the monsoon

Rice farmer carrying rice seedling bundles  to be transplanted

Cambodia farmer moving rice seedling bundles before before transplanted

 

 

Pest Control

In Cambodia’s rice fields, farmers use several methods to protect their crops from birds, particularly as harvest time approaches. Pest control animals play a vital role in managing pests in rice fields, contributing to sustainable agricultural practices. In Cambodia’s rice fields, farmers use several methods to protect their crops from birds, particularly as harvest time approaches. When flocks of small birds attempt to feed on the ripening grains, farmers employ both modern and traditional deterrents. These include protective nets stretched across the fields, corrugated metallic plates that farmers strike with wooden sticks, creating sudden noise and movement to startle birds. The reflective surface of these plates adds to their effectiveness. Traditional methods like scarecrows are also used.

 

bird scaring rice field

🌾HOW RICE IS HARVESTED IN CAMBODIA

Rice cutting is very labor intensive and sickles are used to cut thick bundles  about 20 cm above the chalk. Rice harvest workers can be either members of the same family, neighbors, farmers helping another landowner, or also paid workforce. Rice workers are working together tirelessly all day long from one paddy field to another. The ambiance is very friendly and people are chatting with each other but they are always focused on their task. But they don’t always work in groups, you can also find a lonely old woman working in the field by herself. A working day in the rice fields typically starts around 7 am, workers  have a lunch break around 11:00 am and  go back to the paddy fields from 1 to 5 pm, with some breaks in between.
Bundles of rice left on the fields are then collected and put together to dry either on the bunds or by the side of the road on big piles. You can also see on rare occasions rice drying on handmade wooden dryers.
After harvesting, the remaining rice stalks are grazed by cattle and other animals.

 

rice farming cambodia, rice worker cambodia

Small group of rice harvest workers

 

sickle rice harvesting cambodia

Rice working holding a sickle used for harvesting rice

 

rice harvesting sickle

Rice harvesting with sickle

 

rice sickle, cambodia rice harvesting

Rice harvesting basic tools and gloves

 

 

 

 

rice harvesting krama

Cambodian woman wearing a krama while harvesting rice

rice harvest season cambodiapka romdoul harvest

Because of the scorching heat, people often wear hats that can be conical or flat. They also wear long sleeves, pants, scarves, and light fabric gloves, to protect their skin from the sun. If you are lucky,  you will find women wearing also the traditional krama around their heads.

 

rice worker cambodia

Cambodian woman harvesting rice in Siem Reap

 

rice bundles drying, rice farming cambodia

Bundles of rice drying near a paddy field

 

dry rice cambodia

Closeup of cambodian rice drying

 

rice stalks collection

Stacks of straw loaded on a truck

RICE HARVESTING  CAMBODIA PHOTOGRAPHY

 

Photography during rice harvesting can be one of the highlights of a photography tour in Cambodia. Although harvest  lasts for a relatively short period of time, finding the right locations might not be an easy task if no scouting research was done before.
A wide variety of pictures can be captured in the rice fields of Cambodia, time of the day being a critical factor because it will dictate the light and the level of workers’ activity in the paddy fields.
You can either get close and personal (be careful as you might get your feet wet !) or stay in the distance with a telephoto lens like a 200 or 300 mm. The pictures where you engage with people are likely to be as well the most rewarding ones.

If you are lucky (or if you have a good photography guide) you will spot small groups of Cambodians working in the fields, be prepared to your feet wet to take your best shots ?.

RICE HARVESTING  CAMBODIA GALLERY | BETWEEN LIGHT AND SHADOW

 

 

PHOTO GALLERY: THE ART OF RICE TRANSPLANTING IN CAMBODIA

 

RICE IN  CAMBODIA PHOTOGRAPHY FAQ’s

Which province produce the most rice in Cambodia?

Battambang was long known as the “bowl of Cambodia,” but since 2020, Prey Veng has become the leading province in rice production.

Does Cambodia export rice?

Yes, Cambodia do exports rice. Cambodia is exporting its surplus rice and export also its premium rice. Production has increased in the past two decades, with a significant surplus exported to Europe. However in recent years, Cambodia exported more and more milled rice to China which is now the largest market for export

How many rice harvests are there in Cambodia?

Cambodia has typically two rice crops in a year which corresponds to one harvest in December and one  in January-February. 

Cambodia Green Season Photography

cambodia monsoon season
Every year during Cambodia green season in  September and October, the temples of Angkor are covered with several hues of Green. The old  dry yellowish  moss is  brought to life again by the  monsoon rain.

If Angkor Wat temple does not have any mosses growing on its stones, the temples deeper in the jungle have plenty.

A closer inspection reveals that mosses are not the only ones  responsible for the green. Some lichens (Pyxine) add  some hues to the green palette. Occasionally, you can also find ferns and other plants growing between the stones.

These different species coexist during the green season and moss is generally found in the shadowed areas of the temples where water has a higher chance to stagnate.

If you are a photographer coming to Angkor during this season, you will be blessed with many unique photography opportunities whether shooting with a wide-angle or a portrait lens. Add to this the changing light passing down the clouds or filtering through the foliage and you will get unique pictures. In December. most of the moss starts to dry already and the deep green colors are fading.
During the Cambodia green season, even a boring piece of sandstone becomes a piece of art. You will  probably not take a picture of it during the dry season.

 

All these  pictures  were taken in  the temples of Angkor at the  Cambodia green season during the very  quiet month of September 2021. You will only meet  a few souls in the temples due to lockdowns and the total absence of international tourists. This post is an extension of our previous blog Angkor in Green we published in 2015.

We organize the pictures  in 3 categories:

  • Volume and Textures
  • Statues and Carvings
  • Temples and Gates

 

 

 

ANGKOR IN GREEN | VOLUME AND TEXTURE

This series is all about volume and texture. What can be done with a camera is endless just by moving around to find different perspectives, backlit shapes, and many more.

In Angkor, two main types of stones can be found:  sandstone,  used to build the main temple structures, also easily carved, and the laterite (volcanic looking) mainly used to build walls and water management systems after the 10th century.

 

This piece of sandstone below was fully covered, except for a hole,  by a thick layer of moss. This hole, quite small, was either used to carry the block  or  to attach  bronze plates. The moss  is dark green as we purposely underexposed the shot.

cambodia green sandstone

 

 

 

 

 

In the picture below, both moss and lichen cover the stairs giving some unique shades of green. The large block of sandstone leaning from  the left end side adds a dynamic dimension to the picture.

siem reap green season

 

 

In the picture below, we used a fisheye lens and not a macro lens to capture a large piece of sandstone of a lion’s chest. Several statues of fallen lions can be found in the jungle of Angkor if you spend some time looking for them or if you are lucky to have a private photography guide  with you. Once again, the moss altered shapes and made the texture more interesting.

angkor green lion closeup

 

The shots below were taken using the macro mode to focus on a relative small area and get a shallow depth of field. These lichens, located on the lower part of a window made of sandstone, made for  a quite abstract pattern.

angkor abstract green

 

Moss changes the perception of volume and it is especially noticeable when sandstone blocks are pilled up together looking like an abstract landscape. We played with the available backlit light to enhance the shapes.

In these two pictures below, we played with different textures: the moss on sandstone and rugged laterite blocks lying between the roots of an ancient tree partially covered by moss.
You can apply several compositions to the final picture, using layers, negative space, and placing some elements on dynamic points. We create a composition with three layers, a root going down breaking the frame in a dynamic point.
The second picture has a layered effect and because of the lightning, volumes become more apparent.

 

 JOIN OUR ANGKOR IN GREEN PHOTO TOUR

angkor in green photography tour

 

 

 

ANGKOR IN GREEN | CARVINGS AND STATUES

 

Each monsoon season, carvings and statues get a new life getting even more photogenic. In the shot below, thick patches of moss (most likely Taxithelium Nepalese) are growing like tentacles partly covering a 13th century Buddha face and enhancing some of its features.
Unlike the volume and textures series which had a tight composition, in carvings it might be interesting to have a background. In the picture below, green foliage and the sun filtering through it were placed in the background; the main subject was placed carefully on a dynamic point.

 

 

 

 

On another carving, moss added a green patch to the hairdo of a beautiful devata.

devata carving green moss, cambodia monsoon

Cambodia monsoon season: Devata carving covered in moss

cambodia green season angkor

 

Moss covering  the hand of a giant caught my eye from far away as I was about to enter one of the gopuras of Preah Khan temple.

It took few shots to get the best angle and get a human-like impression of the moss giving an unfinished glove to the standing giant.

 

cambodia green season,guardian hand

Some carvings, but not many, are hidden deep in the thick Angkorian jungle. The one below got a handful of visitors during the last 100 years, mostly from archaeologists.  Once again, we chose to include the lush foliage around shooting at a low angle, which can also give an idea of the size of the carved sandstone block.

 

hidden carving angkor

 

 

ANGKOR IN GREEN | TEMPLES AND GATES

In this series, we move away from abstracts and close-ups to capture the jungle temples covered in green.
In this striking picture of Angkor Thom north gate below, you can appreciate the vivid green moss covering, green foliage, and deep blue sky with clouds. We took this picture when the sun was at the zenith, casting dramatic shadows on the faces and overexposing the moss giving a light green color.

 

angkor gate angkor thom green season

 

The temples covered with the most moss are, with no surprise, the ones surrounded by trees where most of the sun is blocked during the day. In these temples, you don’t really notice a difference in coverage with the cardinal orientation. In the temple below, situated in a relatively dense area of jungle, moss is covering stones scattered and the temple itself, mostly on the lower part.
We carefully framed the small sanctuary with trees to add some depth to the image. In the picture below taken in the most famous of  Ta Prohm, roofing pattern are enhanced by the moss and we can see a stark contrast between the green and tree roots.

 

 

 

 

ta prohm green season

 

 

If you want to learn more about the moss flora of Angkor, I would suggest reading the articles below from research work done by different international teams from Japan, Italy, Korea and the Netherlands in the temples of Angkor.

 

Moss Flora of Angkor, Cambodia. Higuchi, H. Bull. Natl. Mus. Nat. Sci., Ser. B, 35(3), pp. 141–150, 2009.

Noteworthy Lichens with Mazaedia Collected in Cambodia. Kashiwadani H, Aptroot A., Futagami, Y., Hee Moon K. J. Jpn. Bot. 87: 280–283, 2012

 

Biodeterioration of stone in relation to microclimate in the Ta Nei temple – Angkor (Cambodia)
. Caneva,G.Ceschin,S. Salvadori,O. Kashiwadani,H., Moon K.H, Futagami,Y. 12th International Congress on the Deterioration and Conservation of Stone. Columbia University, New York, 2012.

 

37 Heavens Movie Angkor Wat

37 heavens movie angkor wat

37 heavens is an upcoming movie  by and set to be filmed in 2023 in the  famous Angkor Wat temple  in Cambodia.

Movie producers are Graham Leader from SeaLion Films  and Jamie Bialkower from Jump Street Films. Director is Marc Munden, based on a script written by   Steve Austin.

The story focus on the relationship between former first-lady Jackie Kennedy and British diplomat Lord David Harlech.
The title of the movie 37 heavens comes from the famous bas-relief from the Hindu mythology about 32 hells and 37 heavens that can be found in the Eastern section of the southern gallery of Angkor Wat.

 

37 HEAVENS  MOVIE SYNOPSIS (credit: IMDB.com)

In 1967, 4 years after Dallas, Prince Sihanouk invites a still grieving Jackie Kennedy on an official visit to Cambodia. Jackie invites the charismatic British diplomat Lord David Harlech to accompany her. Set amidst the breathtaking ruins of Angkor Wat, 37 HEAVENS recounts their brief but intense love affair.

 

37 HEAVENS   MOVIE CAST

  • Gemma Arterton (Quantum Of Solace, The King’s Man) as Jackie Kennedy.
  • Guy Pearce (Mare Of Easttown, The Hurt Locker) as  Lord David Harlech.

 

37 HEAVENS  | JACKIE KENNEDY VISIT TO ANGKOR WAT IN 1967

In november 1967, only 4 years after the death of John F. Kennedy, Jackie Kennedy realized her long time dream to visit the temples of Angkor  in Cambodia. At this time the United States and Cambodia did not have any diplomatic relations so this visit was also a political one.

Jackie visited Bayon temple guided by Bernard Philippe Groslier, historian and archeologist curator of Angkor at the time. Interestingly  we could not find any archive pictures of of Jackie Kennedy visiting Angkor Wat.

The visit was captured  by photographer Philip Jones Griffiths and made the cover of Time Magazine  in November 1967 (Jackie Kennedy in Cambodia: She Fulfills a Life–Long Wish by Visiting the Ancient Land).

jackie kennedy life magazine cover 1967

Cover of Life magazine in November 1967

 

 

37 HEAVENS  AND 32 HELLS | ANGKOR WAT BAS-RELIEF PHOTO GALLERY

 

The 37 heavens and 32 hells gallery of Angkor Wat is a large bas-relief which can be found on the eastern section of the southern gallery. Stretching over 60 meters, it depicts rewards, punishment and torture of the Hindu Hell. A large 18-armed Yama, god of the dead,  sitting on a bufallo,  is directing the story,

Some part of the bas-relief are polished  because  people touching the carvings the  past 100 years.

37-heavens-angkor

Scene of torture in one of the level of hell

 

 

37-heavens-angkor-wat

Scene of torture in one of the level of hell

 

 

 

 

yama-carving-angkor-wat

18-armed Yama, god of death riding a buffalo

 

 

 

 

32-hells-angkor-wat

Scene of the 32 hells at Angkor Wat southern gallery

 

garudas-holding-heavens-angkor-wat

Garudas holding the lower levels of heavens

Sounds of Angkor

sounds of angkor
Angkor is not only about visuals but also about something we sometime do not spend enough attention: sounds of Angkor The Angkor archeological park which spreads on 400 sqm has a dense forest and many nature sounds are noticeable especially in the morning  when insects and animal are waking up.

They are plenty of  human activities in the park as well as few Cambodia people still live inside as well as a relatively low numbers of monks spread into few pagodas, including two with the perimeter of Angkor Wat temple.

Quite a lot of people are also working around the temples of Angkor : ticket controllers, cleaners and workers and engineers involved in restoration efforts. You can also bump into kids playing on the moat of Angkor or some fishermen taking their chance at the siem reap river.

SOUNDS OF ANGKOR |  ANGKOR WAT POND BEFORE SUNRISE

angkor wat sunrise reflection

This audio was recorded in June 2020 at the one of the busiest reflecting pond where tourists gathered by the thousand to watch the sun rising behind Angkor Wat temple. Due to the pandemic, the place was exceptionally quiet and you can hear a number of nature sounds: crickets, small frogs and toward the end, a gecko in the distance.

SOUNDS OF ANGKOR |  ARCHEOLOGICAL RESTORATIONS

  The audio was recorded in September 2022 at the East entrance of Ta Prohm temple, which has undergone extensive restoration. Many of the workers on these projects are from the surrounding villages and use their ancestors’ tools to work on the sandstone; however, trucks have replaced elephants for the purposes of moving large blocks of stone. Every restoration site in Angkor will always be accompanied by the sound of chisels hitting sandstone blocks.
Many archaeological restoration projects were started in 2020 when the tourism numbers fell dramatically by more than 90% due to the pandemic. In our blog, you can learn more about Angkor’s archeological projects  .

SOUNDS OF ANGKOR | THE ANGKORIAN JUNGLE

angkor jungle tree

 

If you have been to Angkor jungle often, you’ll become familiar with its sounds. The Angkor archaeological park hosts the  largest forest near Siem Reap. There are hundreds of kilometers of jungle trails that can be explored on an ebike, some of which will lead you to hidden temples. Among the sounds you will hear are insects, monkeys, chirping birds, and more… .

 

 

 

 

A hissing sound is often heard in the temples of Angkor, and sometimes it is mistaken for the sound of an alarm system. The sound is made by insects called cicadas, which are found around the world as well. The buzzing sound of cicadas is often heard but rarely seen as they blend in with tree bark colors and patterns and stop making noise when you get too close. Cicadas live most of their lives underground (up to 17 years), and only a few weeks in the open air, long enough to mate, fertilize, and lay eggs.

 

 

 

SOUNDS OF ANGKOR |  TA PROHM TEMPLE

 

 

ta phrom temple northern gopura

The sounds of Ta Prohm temple  are so distinctive that you will know you’re in Angkor even if you are blindfolded. There are flocks of parakeets flying above the temples and you can hear them chirping constantly. You can also hear the buzzling sound of cicadas in the background.

 

SOUNDS OF ANGKOR |  RICE HARVESTING

 

rice worker cambodia

 

 

SOUNDS OF ANGKOR | PRAYERS AT LOCAL PAGODA

Crowd gathered in front of the pagoda for the final ceremony

Archaeology Cambodia Projects

archaeological projects cambodia

Archaeology Cambodia: A Quick Timeline

 

With over 2000 archeological sites in total, Cambodia is well known worldwide for its beautiful temples of Angkor near Siem Reap.

Angkor Wat temple in particular has captured the imagination of many generations since Henri Mouhot introduced  it to the world in 1860 with his book Voyage dans les Royaumes de Siam, de Cambodge, de Laos. Although Angkor was rediscovered earlier in the 16th century, it was never completely abandoned.

 

It is only after few decades after Cambodia became a French Protectorate in 1863 that  archeological conservation  began  in Angkor. For the explorers who came to Angkor before 1900, it was a dangerous expedition as temples were covered with a dense jungle which grew over the centuries.

 

One of the most important milestones of the archeological conservation work in Angkor was  the inception of the EFEO (The École française d’Extrême-Orient or French School of Asian Studies) in 1900. It is not before 1907 that the restoration work started in Angkor as Siem Reap was controlled by the Kingdom of  Siam till this date.

Conservation work was interrupted  during the Khmer rouge regime and for many years after. It resumed in 1992 supported by  the APSARA and the Cambodian government. Nowadays, many countries are supporting the conservation efforts in the temples of Angkor and beyond such as India, Japan, Korea, Indonesia, China, France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland.

 

 

 

ARCHAEOLOGY PROJECTS IN ANGKOR

 

The primary goal of this page is to gather the last information about the main archaeological projects in the temples of Angkor and in Cambodia in general. Interestingly since tourism stopped mid March due to the pandemic,  many locally privately  funded archeological projects have started.

Due to the fact that most temples were built  on sand, structures slowly sank and now  are buried. It is not uncommon that statues or artifacts   are found less than one meter deep into the ground.

 

 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL CONSERVATION  | DISCOVERIES

Archaeological site: Angkor Thom West  Gate

GPS coordinates: 13°26’28.6″N 103°50’42.6″E

Discovery date:  May 2nd  2022.

apsara carving west gate angkor thom

Image source: Apsara Authority

An Apsara carving was found on the lower side of the bridge leading to Angkor Thom west gate. It is not clear at this point if this stone was part of the original structure. It is the first time such carving was found on Angkor Thom gates.

Archaeological site: Baray Pier of Banteay Chhmar temple

GPS coordinates: 14°04’17.0″N 103°06’37.7″E

Discovery date:  February 3rd  2020.

 

A 2-meter tall lion statue weighting more than 2 tons  was unearthed during the archeaological project taking place at the pier of the Baray of Banteay Chhmar. He was put back in place at its original position where it will face the sunrise once again.

lion statue banteay chhmar

Image source: Banteay Chhmar CBT Facebook page

 

lion banteay chhmar, archeology cambodia

Image source: Banteay Chhmar CBT Facebook page

 

 

TO KNOW MORE ABOUT BANTEAY CHHMAR TEMPLE, CLICK BELOW

banteay chhmar small citadel

Archaeological site: Srah Srang reservoir

GPS coordinates: 13°25’51.3″N 103°54’23.0″E

Discovery date:  May 6th and May 8th  2020.

Two days apart,  two stone turtles were unearthed from the  ground of Kandal  Srah Srang. The first one uncovered on May 6th 2020, measured 22 by 37 inches and had a lid which when  was opened was found  empty. The lid of the second turtle found two days later contained small crystal stones  and a small trident

The tortoise Kurma is an avatar of the Hindu god Vishnu and often depicted in the story of the churning of the Ocean of Milk. It is not the first time stone turtles were found in Angkor: two were found at Bayon temple in 2014 with one containing a gold leaf and crystals in its cavity.

 

 

turtle angkor

First turtle discovered in Srah Srang. photo credit: Apsara Authority

 

Second turtle discovered in Srah Srang. photo credit: Apsara Authority

 

 

 

Archaeological site: Angkor Wat western lawn

GPS coordinates: 13°24’47.0″N 103°51’43.9″E

Discovery date: April 16th 2020.

During the installation of an  irrigation system on the lawn of Angkor Wat temple, many pieces of beheaded Buddha statues were unearthed only 40 cm deep in the ground. They were found together with modern object including plastic bags suggested that they were buried in the 60’s or 70’s.

angkor wat excavation buddha statues, archaealogy angkor

photo credit: Apsara Authority

archeaological discovery angkor,archaealogy angkor

photo credit: Apsara Authority

archeaological discovery angkor,archaealogy angkor

photo credit: Apsara Authority

 

Archaeological site: Angkor Wat northern pond

GPS coordinates: 13°24’47.9″N 103°51’51.6″E

Discovery date: March 26th 2020.

During the excavation work on the northern pond of Angkor Wat, an intriguing structure with wooden beams (believed to be dating back from the 12th century) was found below the pond. A small statue of Ganesha was also recovered.

angkor wat discovery wooden beams

photo credit: Apsara Authority

photo credit: Apsara Authority

photo credit: Apsara Authority

photo credit: Apsara Authority

 

Archaeological site: Angkor Thom East gate (death gate)

GPS coordinates: 13°26’29.6″N 103°52’23.7″E

Discovery date: April 1st 2020.

 

 

A team of the APSARA Authority discovered two face stones buried in the siem reap river nearby the death gate of Angkor Thom about 1.5 km from Bayon temple. One was a faceless demon head (also called asura) and the other a god head (called deva) with its left  and bottom parts of the  face missing.

The death gate is one the most remote of the five gates of Angkor Thom and also the one with no statues standing so this discovery is significant. Originally, each gate had on each side two rows of demons and god pulling a snake as reference to the story of the Churning of the Sea of Milk.

Each side had 2X 54 statues so 216 heads were attached to this site originally.

 

deva head angkor thom

photo credit: Apsara Authority

 

asura head angkor thom

photo credit: Apsara Authority

 

 

 

Archaeological site: Tonle Snguot Temple

GPS coordinates: 13°27’35.6″N 103°51’30.4″E

Discovery date: July 31st 2017.

 

A 2-meter sandstone  statue was unearthed 40cm deep  in the ground of an angkorian hospital dating back from the 12th century. This archaeological site, called Tonle Snguot Temple is one of the 4 remaining  of the network of 102  hospitals built by Jayavarman VII in Angkor Thom. Two others can be  visited close to Angkor Wat and Takeo temples.

This statue is believed to be standing on the entrance of the hospital acting as a guardian. Many similar statues like this one can be find in Preah Khan temple, although their head had been stolen in the 70s so it is quite rare  to find statues with a complete head.  However this  statue’s arms and legs were missing.

 

 

archaelogical discovery angkor

photo credit: Apsara Authority

ARCHAEOLOGICAL CONSERVATION PROJECTS | ONGOING

Archaeological site: Angkor Wat central sanctuary (Bakan)

GPS coordinates: 13°24’45.0″N 103°52’01.1″E

Focus of the conservation work: southwestern and northwestern side of  the central sanctuary

Project duration: Started November 2021

The central sanctuary of Angkor Wat, also called Bakan, is the third and most sacred level of the temple. It is currently  accessible by a wooden  stairway covering the original stairs from  the east side, the other accesses being blocked at this time.

The foundation of the sanctuary is made of laterite stones which can be seen in some damaged part of the structure.

This work is  part of a 5-year project aimed at restoring different sections of Bakan. After the restoration of  the northwest and southwest corners will be completed, the next task  will be consolidate the  southeast and northeast corners of the sanctuary.

 

angkor wat bakan

The central sanctuary of Angkor Wat (Bakan) in March 2022 

Archaeological site: Srah Srang reservoir (COMPLETED)

GPS coordinates: 13°25’51.3″N 103°54’23.0″E

Focus of the conservation work: central temple

Project duration: March 2020 – February 2021

Srah Srang (Khmer: ស្រះស្រង់, “Royal Bath”) is an artificial reservoir (also called Baray) surrounded by sandstone and laterite rocks  facing the east entrance of Banteay Kdei temple. It is believed to have been dug in mid 1oth century and subsequently modified during the reign of Jayavarman VII  in the 12th century.

It measures 700 by 350 meters and it is very shallow most of the year, occasionally becoming dry few weeks a year. In the  dry season you could sometime see a  small pile of sandstone blocks right in the middle of the reservoir. A Cambodian flag marked its position when the rocks are below the water.

 

The current project, privately funded and executed by the Apsara Anthority is focusing  on the restoration of  the central temple. The first phase of the project is to  build a wall around the small temple to isolate it from the surrounding water (see drone picture below). Two quite rare sandstone turtoises were found on the site: two replicas were placed at the same location.

At the end of the restoration project in January 2021, one can see from far away a lotus shaped temple, and a broken Naga standing. In February 2021 the temple was opened for the first time to the public and it now accessible (depending on the water level).

drone angkor,archaealogy angkor

Srah Srang drone view. photo credit: Apsara Authority

srah sang temple angkor

Temple bird view. photo credit: Apsara Authority

srah srang restoration

Cambodian worker from the restoration project (April 2020)

srah srang temple restoration

Cambodian worker with central temple in the background (April 2020)

 

srah srang central temple

Srah Srang’s central temple (June 2016)

ancient trident archaeology angkor

Trident found on Srah Srang island on May 4th 2020. photo credit: Apsara Authority

Archaeological site: Angkor Wat temple

GPS coordinates: 13°24’47.9″N 103°51’51.6″E

Focus of the conservation work: Northern reflection pond

Started: May 2019

 

The northern reflection pond is a world’s  famed location where thousands of tourists day after day stand to witness the color of sunrise behind the five lotus-shaped towers of Angkor Wat. The  site got damaged years after  years by millions of visitor and by erosion. In recent years, the level of water was dropping so much in dry season that  water from the main moat of Angkor Wat had to pumped in.

The pond is 76 meters long and 48.5 meters wide, his depth ranging from 2.7 to 2.9 meters and has embankment steps made of sandstone and laterite stones. Announced multiple times in 2018, the project of restoration of the pond was started in May 2019

The purpose of this project, beside the restoration, is to understand how the pond was built originally and to carry some archaeological excavations. In 2021, the project is still ongoing.

 

Cambodia archaeology,angkor wat northern pond

Northern pond with Angkor Wat in the background, the wooden beams were found below the green cover (4th April 2020)

angkor wat temple archaeology

Excavation work at Angkor Wat Northern pond (27th February 2020)

 

 

 

Archaeological site: Angkor Thom

GPS coordinates: 13°26’28.6″N 103°50’42.6″E

Focus of the conservation work: West gate of Angkor Thom

Started: March 2020, completed in February 2023

 

The west gate of Angkor Thom, also known as Ta Kav gate or TaKaov gate is one of the five gates leading to  the 12th century  fortified complex of Angkor Thom, also the last city of the Khmer Empire before it was gradually deserted from the 15th century.

Symmetrically opposite from Bayon and the  East gate, about 3 kilometers away, TaKaov gate   has always been out of the beaten path from most tourists visiting  the  Angkor archaeological park. This gate is actually used everyday by local people either on bicycle or motorbikes  as a gateway from  nearby  villages to  Angkor Thom. Its path was once covered by wooden planks, but now only a dirt path remains.

In July 2021, a huge anastylosis project was started on the gate. During excavations,  three deva and asura heads were discovered on the western side of the gate. One asura (god head) was found buried under a tree. Some large trees surrounded the gate were cut as well to make room for the restoration work. In 2022, the project continued and the 4 faces  removed from the gate and some giant statues being  carved to be placed on the western side of the gate. In February  2023, Apsara Authority annonced  that the restoration project was completed.

 

angkor rthom west gate, Archaeology Cambodia

TaKaov gate, April 2020

 

angkor thom takaov gate, Archaeology Cambodia

Ta Kav gate in March 2021

 

buried asura head angkor thom

Asura head found buried under a tree. photo credit: Apsara Authority (July 2021)

 

ta kav gate angkor thom

Ta Kav gate, August  2021

stone carvers at Angkor Thom

Stone carvers working on new faces at Angkor Thom west gate. February 2022

 

stone carving at Angkor Thom west gate

Stone carvers working on new sandstone block to make a new face. February 2022

 

new half face made of sandstone

New half-face made of sandstone. February 2022

Three-headed elephant after restoration. February 2023

 

Archaeological site: Banteay Kdei temple

GPS coordinates: 13°25’51.1″N 103°53’54.3″E

Focus of the conservation work: Western gopura

Started: March 2020, still ongoing

 

Banteay Kdei temple (AD 1185) is a one of the the many temples built under the reign of the king Jayavarman VII following the Bayon style and one of the few temples with face towers in Angkor.

Banteay Kdei is actually quite unique within the Angkor archaeological  park as all four of its face towers are still standing. The current restoration work is focusing on the western gopura which has only two of its four faces complete. One face  facing west is missing its top half. in 202o, trees have been cleared around the tower making the faces more visible than before.

After a period of inactivity, the project resumed in January 2022 where the gate is being disassembled. It is not clear at this stage if new sandtone blocks will be added to the structure.

 

 

bantey kdei temple, angkro archaeological park

Banteay Kdei west gate in March 2020 after trees were cut

banteay kdei gopura

Banteay Kdei west gate in March 2020 after trees were cut

 

 

Cambodia archaeology, banteay kdei temple

Banteay Kdei west gate facing east in March 2020

 

banteay kdei anystalosis 2022

Banteay Kdei west gate being disassembled, february 2022

 

Banteay Kdei giant lips down on the ground, february 2022

Redmi Note 8 Pro Review Photography, first 64 MP smartphone camera

redmi note 8 pro photo review

Redmi note 8 pro review

 

I recently updated my Huawei P9 lite (released in April 2016 ) with a  Redmi Note 8 Pro, a mid range smartphone released by Xiaomi in October 2019.  This  smartphone  is dubbed by Xiaomi as the  “Pioneer of 64MP Quad Camera” as it is the world’s first smart phone with a 64MP camera.

 

 

xiaomi redmi note 8 pro cambodia

Redmi Note 8 Pro phone specifications

  •  6.53-inch FHD+ display. 1080×2340 px, 395 PPI.
  • Octa core (2.05 GHz, Dual Core + 2 GHz, Hexa Core).
  • Helio G90T chipset.
  • 8GB RAM.
  • 128GB storage.
  • 4,500mAh battery with support for 18W fast-charging.
  • MIUI 10 based on Android 9.
  • Corning Gorilla Glass 5.

 

 

Redmi Note 8 Pro camera specs

 

Like razor blades it looks that mobile phones are getting  more and more camera lenses these days and it is also the case  for this redmi note 8 pro which packed 4 camera lens on the back and one on the front (20 MP selfie f: 2.0).

64 MP ultra high resolution  at f:1.89
8MP ultra wide at f:2.2
2 MP macro at f: 2.4
2 MP depth sensor

ISO:  from 100 to 3200

 

The most anticipated feature of the RedMi  is the 64 MP camera based on the 64-megapixel Samsung ISOCELL GW1 sensor (pixel size: 0.8μm).

The sensor is 1/1.7″  (7.6 X 5.70 mm) which is 8.5 times smaller than the  sensor of the Fuji X-T100 (24 MP). You are probably wondering how it is  possible to cram 64 megapixels  on a so small sensor ? Well it is because the native format is only 16 MP: tetracell technology uses pixel-merging and Samsung’s remosaic algorithm to merge four pixels into one and provides a high resolution image.

 

RedMi 8 note pro file resolutions

For photographers, here are the file sizes you will get with this phone

1200 X 1600 pixels (2MP macro mode)

2448 X 3264 pixels (8 MP wide angle)

3472 X 4624 pixels (16 MP)

6936 X 9248 pixels (64 MP)

 

Redmi 8 Note Pro photography tips

 

Set  camera frame

Before you start taking pictures, it is  very important to set  camera frame  as it will set the final file size. It is accessed from the  camera menu (top right corner). You have the choice between the different formats below:

1:1 (good for your Instagram feed)
3:4
9:16
Full (1:2.2) which is the ratio of the camera screen

When shooting on normal mode  (16 MP) here the different final file sizes and resolutions below:

Full 2136*4324 9.9 MP
1:1 3172*3472 12 MP
3:4 3472*4624 16MP
9:16 2600*4624 12 MP

 

Use Redmi pro mode

Using RedMi pro mode is useful in difficult lighting conditions (indoor for example) and for creative photography where you want to control as many things as possible

What will you be able to adjust using the pro mode?

  • White balance (from 2000 to 8000 K)
  • Focus (from 1 to 100 units)
  • ISO (from 100 to 3200 ISO)
  • Field of view   (macro, wide or ultra-wide).

Note the the 64MP option do not work with macro and ultra-wide lenses

redmi note 8 pro cambodia review

redmi 8 note pro review: 16 MP pro mode (Pagoda in Siem Reap)

Use portrait mode to blur background

You can adjust the aperture from f:1.0 to f:16 on portrait and therefore control the depth of field in your pictures. It is especially useful when taking closeup objects.

redmi 8 note pro mode

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Redmi Note 8 Pro review: image samples

 

This gallery will be expanded in the future. We tried to shot in different conditions and used the different available modes (macro, 64MP, HDR, ultrawide) to assess the quality of pictures.

redmi 8 note pro review: ultra-wide angle

 

redmi note 8 pro HDR photography

redmi 8 note pro review: HDR mode

 

redmi note 8 pro cambodia review

redmi 8 note pro : 16 MP pro mode (Preah Khan temple)

 

redmi note 8 pro 64 MP sample

redmi 8 note pro : 64 MP sample (see a cropped sample here)

 

redmi note 8 pro review,redmi note 8 macro

redmi 8 note pro review: macro mode

redmi 8 note pro review: normal mode (X2 zoom)

Shooting video with the Redmi Note 8 Pro

Redmi note 8 pro can record 4K, 1080, 720  videos at 30 fps.  Unfortunately the pro mode is not available in pro mode so creativity is limited:(

Slow motion movies can be captured at 960, 240 and 120 fps at 1280*720 resolution. Note that the quality of the 960 is the less good. Its use it pretty limited but can interesting results with very  fast moving scenes such as waterfall.

 

The most interesting video  feature which is not immediately visible to first time users are the video stabilization  at 1080p which works very well even if you record handheld while walking. Stabilization is activated in Video –> Settings –> Image stabilization.

 

RedMi Note 8 pro hyperlapse (X2) with video stablization

 

 

Timelapse and hyperlapse videos are recorded in video mode by selecting  Time-lapse  on the upper right section. Frequency of the shots can be adjusted on the camera settings menu (video mode) from 2X (0.06-second interval) to 1800X (60-second interval).

X2 would be for very fast moving objects (city traffic for example) and 150X and above for slow and very slow moving scenes (e.g cloudscapes).

We recorded the timelapse  (hyperlapse) below from   inside a moving car at 1080 p (2X speed). It was further  edited on the phone by applying a film filter. For more advanced editing you can use  the Kinemaster application.

 

CONCLUSIONS

The quad camera system is part of the marketing  strategy from Xiaomi and follow the steps of Samsung A9, the first world’s first 24 MP quad camera smartphone released at the end of  2018.

The picture quality of the 64 MP camera is  good in bright  daylight and is  clearly the strongest feature of this  redmi note 8 pro camera.

We did not see any advantage  of having a dedicated macro lens and picture quality coming from the ultrawide 8 MP is  average. Another lens is the 2 MP depth sensor which is not something that it is not used all the time.

 

Although it take pictures at 64 MP, the redmi note 8 pro is however not a replacement for a entry level DSLR or mirrorless camera but of course as the saying goes,  the best camera is the one you have with you:)

 

Redmi Note 8 Pro | Cons

 

  • The 64 MP shooting mode is not the default one when you open the camera, so be sure to select it first
  • The ultra-wide mode is not available at 64 MP
  • Video stabilization is only available when recording at 1080p but not at 4k

 

 

Cambodia Markets Through a Camera Lens

improve your photography in cambodia markets

Markets in South-East Asia and in Cambodia in particular are one of my favorite places to take pictures for many reasons which I will detail below. Every city or village in Cambodia have one or more markets. They can be indoors under  metallic rooftops or in a concrete building or outdoors  along a road side. Market stalls are often organized by categories (jewelry, clothes, fish, vegetables, meat, desserts, hairdressers, etc…).

It is also possible to find  specialized markets like the  fermented fish (prahok) market of Battambang (also called cheese market because of its strong smell) and the crab market in Kep.

 

prahok market battambang

Worker at the prahok market of Battambang (Phsar Prahok)

 

CAMBODIA MARKETS | ARCHITECTURE

 

Architecture photography will not come to mind when talking about market in South-East Asia. However in Cambodia, few markets are also known for their architecture: the central market of Phnom Penh (Phsar Thmey), the central market of Battambang (Phsar Nath) to name as few which were built in the 1930’s following an  Art Deco style.

 

 

psa nat battambang

Interior of Battambang market (Psa Nat), Art Deco style

 

Architecture is one thing but what is inside of course is more interesting. One thing Asian local markets are sharing is their energy especially during morning  peak hours. Photographers are  always looking for the best light and  in an indoor market in early morning when the sun is barely  above  the horizon, this quest could prove to be quite  challenging. The light can be  diffused softly through the  ceiling or coming directly  through some small holes in the metallic structure making impressive beams of light added some atmosphere to the pictures. These lighting conditions make market photography challenging and hence the best place to learn or improve your photography.

 

CAMBODIA MARKETS | SLICES OF DAILY LIFE

 

 

Markets in Cambodia are also a good opportunity to catch some short lived  moments: monk asking for alms, locals sellers interacting with customers. Mothers also often bring their kids at the market and always happy to strike a pose

monk alms local market cambodia

local market cambodia photography

 

fish seller cambodia market

cook in local market cambodia

 

The space you will have  to take pictures can be limited because indoor  markets have generally narrow lanes and some area are congested. Be aware of the traffic from  motorbikes as they are allowed to cross the market.

 

happy kid cambodia market siem reap

siem reap kids playing cambodia market

 

baby in banana market cambodia

 

daughter and mother at hairdresser market siem reap

 

 

 

jewellery workshop cambodia

 

 

local barista sime reap

Barista in local market

 

CAMBODIA MARKETS | PORTRAITURE

Approaching people and get the perfect portrait is a challenge by itself and it gets easier to do that with a photography guide  who has established some relationships with local sellers. Cambodian people are very friendly and are open to be photographed but it is always better to ask first. Cambodia is changing rapidly but in local markets you can still find elderly women wearing a traditional piece of cloth called kroma folded around their heads.

 

old Cambodia at the market portrait wearing kroma

old Cambodia at the market portrait wearing kroma

 

old cambodian woman krama

old Cambodia at the market portrait wearing kroma

elderly betel vendors at market siem reap cambodia

portrait barista market cambodia

 

cook in local market siem reap

 

CAMBODIA MARKETS | FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY

 

Food photography is not to be missed and food stalls, especially vegetable ones can  be particularly colorful. You can even capture abstract patterns there if you looking carefully as these water lily stems below.

 

vegetable market siem reap

 

 

siem reap vegetable market background

water lily fstems background market cambodia

 

 

If you are interested to capture similar pictures and improve your photography skills, please have a look at my two guided  photography tours in Siem Reap here and here. Our multi-day tour in Battambang province will provided you also with many photography opportunities out of the beaten path.

Jayavarman VII’s Faces of Stone

jayavarman faces angkor
If you have visited the temples of Angkor, you probably still remember the impressive face towers of Bayon temple.  These enigmatic and slightly smiling faces carved in sandstone are the signature of the  king Jayavarman VII. This design is very important in the  Angkorian architecture and unique among all archaeological sites of South East Asia.

To this day,  the meaning of these faces is still a mystery: some authors are connecting these faces to Shiva, Brahma, Avalokiteshvara,  Buddha or to the King Jayavarman II himself.

So how many faces can be found in Cambodia? 300 is  probably a good estimate and with Bayon alone counting for 200 of them. These faces can be found on the side of  towers of  temples  in Angkor and beyond, some in very remote area.  If you want to visit all the sites with face towers, it is a long  journey that we take you hundreds of kilometers on both side of Angkor. We found that face towers are the most spectacular and enigmatic in remote temples where they are still surrounded  by jungle and hidden away from tourists. In Angkor, the best way to see the face towers is to join us for a day of adventure with  e-bikes.

 

BAYON TEMPLE (JAYAVARMAN)

Face towers temple by design, Bayon has an unique and imposing architecture. Whether you look at it from far or close from the upper terrace, the faces carved in sandstone are unique and best seen early morning or the evening at the golden hour.

Bayon temple is the with the highest concentration of face towers and is also the top 3 visited temple in Angkor.  Many photography opportunities exist from the upper terrace as it is possible to frame the faces with many compositions. It then become quite a game of composition for photographer to find new angles and play with the window openings.

 

Note: From January 2020, the upper terrace of the Bayon temple will be closed to the public due to the start of a restoration undertaken by Japanese Government Team for Safeguarding Angkor (JASA). The exact duration is not known but we can expect it to last few years (3 to 5 years) as it is a major archeological work

 

Bayon temple face Angkor photography tours

 

bayon faces

 

bayon stone faces golden hour

GATES OF ANGKOR THOM

 

Angkor Thom is an ancient fortified city of 3 square kilometers with five entrances and .surrounded by a moat It was also the last capital of the Khmer Empire. Each gate has  a  20-meter tower with 4 faces and 4  three-headed elephant. All  20 faces are intact but n the the last 5 years, some faces have been secured by metallic cables.

 

angkor thom gate face jayavarman

Face carved on Angkor Thom West Gate in Angkor Thom Cambodia. Angkor Thom was the last capital of the Khmer empire during the 12th century.Selective color

 

 

 

 

 

TA SOM TEMPLE

 

 

Ta Som is a small temple located just east of the Preah Khan Baray or (Jayatataka) with two face towers. The  East gopura is photogenic although the strangler fig does not grow directly around the faces.  50 years ago when the number of tourists were very low, the western gopura was one of the most famous spot in Angkor with a tree growing around one face. Unfortunately the tree was cleared up in the 60’s.

 

ta som temple face tower ta som hidden face

 Photo credit: Luc Ionesco.

BANTEAY KDEI TEMPLE

 

Few hundred meters from Ta Prohm, lies the less visited temple of Banteay Kdei (the citadel of chambers ) with  four entrances, most visitors are familiar with the eastern and western ones.

 

 

banteay kdei entrance

 

 

TA PROHM TEMPLE

 

Built in the 12 century by Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his father, Ta Phrom is one  of the most famous temple with Angkor Wat and Bayon, Ta Prohm has four entrances with tower faces. The eastern entrance gate is partially collapsed and unfortunately  do not have any standing faces. The  western  is intact but the most interesting one  is the less visited northern entrance. At the end of 2017, a side of the tower  collapses as a tree holding the structure went down because of a  landslide. The gate was partially restored  in June 2018.

 

 

 

ta prohm temple gate restoration

 

ta prohm temple gate

 

Northern gopura before the landslide

ta phrom temple northern gopura

 

 

BEYOND ANGKOR

 

BANTEAY CHHMAR TEMPLE

Banteay Chhmar is a large temple complex in Banteay Meanchey Province, nearby the Thai border. Research has shown that Banteay Chhmar  had originally  28 face towers, but because its remote  location it was not saved from the jungle like Bayon at the beginning of the 20th century and many structures collapsed in the last 100 years.  Its proximity to Thailand made it also a target for looting. Today, some beautiful face towers remain in the temple itself and in its satellite temples. To read more about Banteay Chhmar please have a look at our blogpost.

banteay chhmar temple

banteay chhmar face tower

face tower in banteay chhmar temple

 

 

PREAH KHAN KOMPONG SVAY

 

Preah Khan is probably one of the most remote Angkorian temple built under the reign of Jayavarman VII. This huge complex has only a small temple with a face tower. To learn more about this temple, please have a look at our blog entitled the enigmatic temple of Peah Khan of  Kompong Svay.

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Photowalk in the streets of Battambang

battambang photography

Battambang (also called Bat Dambong which means the  disappearing  stick) is the second largest city in Cambodia with a rich colonial history. It had more than 500,000 inhabitants  in 1962.

Because of its proximity with Thailand, Battambang had a tumultuous history.  It was annexed by Thailand in 1795 until it was transferred to French Indochina e in 1907. But it was not always peaceful, it was in the middle of the French-Thai war in 1940-1941, Thailand finally ceded back in 1946.

 

Because of the quality of its soil, Battambang province is the rice bowl of cambodia. The city center  counts about 800 colonial building spread around the central market called Psa  Nat 0r Psah Nath, west of the Sangkar river. It was built by the same French architects who did the central market in Phnom Penh and Saigon following the art deco style. some old pagoda with Thai influence. They are many shop houses along streets number 1 and 1.5 although many now are defaced because of shops. There is even a 150 years old Chinese active temple.

 

 

A photowalk in Battambang city center will give you plenty of photo opportunities of you like architecture and street photography. The back alleys and the yellow wall will remind of  Hoi An or the Cholon district of Saigon.

Architecture
chinese temple battambang

150 years old Chinese temple
battambang architectureNew Khmer Architecture building  (Sangkum Reastr Niyum)
 

psa nat battambang
Interior of Phsar Nath market (Art Deco)
battambang pagoda
Wat Pipetharam (Thai architecture)
Chinese shophouse Battambang
Chinese shophouse
 

Back Alleys
battambang street photography

 

battambang street photography

yellow battambang photography

 

Background and patterns
battambang photography tour

chain backgroudn battambang

Vintage floor tiles

 

 

Post French period (Sangkum Reastr Niyum).

Pagoda damrey sor and wat pipetharam

 

 

 

Wat pipetharam psa nath
Meatl

People
 

 

People
motodop battambang

 

battambang children

 

street photography battambang

 

Shophouses

 

15 stunning pictures of Angkor Wat temple

best cambodia images
Like a pilgrimage, thousand of people are exploring everyday  Angkor Wat, the largest religious  temple in the  world and share  their pictures on social media. Among them, pictures of  sunrise at the reflecting pool  are probably the most famous ones. However there are many other opportunities. We wanted to sharing  with you in this post  our 15 favorite pictures taken in Angkor Wat over the years.

 

 

angkor wat sunrise spring equinox photography tours

 

Above is Angkor Wat  captured during the spring equinox of  March 2016. This timely event occurs  twice a year around the 20th  of March and  September.  Getting this shot is of course highly depend on the weather and the chance to have a cloudy sky is particularly high during the month of September. In this picture we blended 4 shots taken few minutes apart with a tripod.

 

 

angkor wat solar eclipse

 

On  March 9th 2016,  a special set conditions were gathered  for an unique Angkor Wat sunrise: a partial eclipse of the sun and  the near alignment with the central tower. For few seconds only we could see the sun masked by the moon suspended above  the central tower.

 

 

The second level of Angkor Wat is where you stand the closest to the five towers and to the central sanctuary called Bakan. From the corners, only three  of the five towers are visible. On the first picture, during Vesak day, a Khmer family was walking around the temple which give an interesting human dimension. The second picture, much more dramatic,   from another angle, allow to  focus on the silhouette of the three towers.

angkor wat vesak day

 

angkor wat temple

 

 

 

 

Due to restrictions of the the opening hours, it is only possible to shoot Angkor Wat under the stars  between the month of December and February.  As it is  also the peak season for tourism in Cambodia so many people are on site early and it is quite challenging to avoid the light pollution coming from torch lights and smartphones during long exposure shots. If you look carefully in the picture below, 3 out of 5 towers are lighting up on this shot thanks to random  torch lights.

In an there situations, artificial lighting  can be helpful to do light painting . This used on the second picture to illuminate and create light effect on one of the naga balustrade of Angkor Wat.

angkor wat photography tours night

 

angkor wat night photography

 

 

The only opportunity you will have to take some night pictures of Angkor Wat with laser lights are usually during the three days of Khmer New Year which happens every year in April. However this picture was taken in December 14th, 2017 during a light show to celebrate of the 25th anniversary UNESCO world heritage status of Angkor Wat temple.

 

angkor wat unesco anniversary

 

 

 

 

 

Sunrise or sunset in Angkor Wat provide some  opportunities for silhouettes shots if you are standing on the right location at the right time. In some instance, rays of light can go through the windows and create unique pictures.

 

angkor wat window sun flare

 

 

Instead of aiming  at eye-level for the classic reflection shot at Angkor Wat, pointing down the camera  can give a great reflection shot especially at the golden hour.

angkor wat sunrise reflection

 

 

One of my favorite group of  devatas  is located on the second level of Angkor Wat (you  can count as many as 17 on this picture). It is unfortunately behind a  scaffolding  since 2016 due to restoration of the tower above it.

 

churning ocean milk angkor wat vishnu

 

This  49 meters long bas-relief depicting the churning of the ocean of milk is one of the most famous in Angkor Wat. You can see the demons (asuras) and the gods (devas) pulling the snake  Vasuki fighting over the  elixir of immortality. The snake is wrapped around  mount Meru used as a stick. Vishnu under the form of his avatar the turtle is helping to stabilize the mountain. Due to its position the  bas relief has a strong casting shadow. The solution for this shot was to use light painting, and blend multiple pictures together.

 

 

 

 

 

Archaeologists often describe the temples of Angkor as a skeleton as the many wooden structures that  did not stand the test of time. On this shot of Angkor taken from the top of the main tower, one can imagine what the temple was  like at its heydays with ornaments and wooden doors.

angkor wat photography tours

 

Angkor Wat emerging from the surrounding misty jungle in the  morning. This picture was shot from Phnom  Bakheng one of the three hills around Siem Reap. To get this shot we recommended to use at least a 300 mm on a full frame sensor.