The Cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka

sri lanka cultural triangle

Sri Lanka is a relatively small country and has a lot to offer to archaeological and history lovers with several beautiful and well maintained archaeological sites with 8 of them listed on the UNESCO World Heritage. The most important ones are situated in a zone called the cultural triangle or golden triangle formed by Anarudhapura, Polonnarowa and Kandy in the middle of the island . The other significant sites are Sigiriya, Minhatale and Dambulla cave.

 

 

MIHINTALE

Although not on the UNESCO list, Mihintale (also known as Cetiyagiri or Sagiri) is a very important archeological site and also one of the oldest in Sri Lanka. Mihintale is regarded to be the cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka where the monk Mahinda and King Devanampiyatissa Nuradhapura met. The rock called Aradhana Gala where Mahinda landed can be climbed and is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhist all over the world. The view from the top is breathtaking especially when the sun is down. It is accessed by a flight of rock-carved steps.

 

 

mihintale sri lanka

 

 

ANURADHAPURA

This archaeological site is situated in the town of Anuradhapura, 205 km away from the Capital of Colombo and spread on 41km2 (about 1/10 of Angkor Archaeological site).
In 377 BC, King Pandukabhaya (437–367 BC) moved the capital of the Sinhalese Kingdom to Anuradhapura and developed it into a prosperous city.

Anuradhapura was added to the UNESCO Word Heritage list in 1982. It was founded in 3 BC and once had the tallest structures in the ancient world with a dagoba (stupa). The stupa we see nowadays can be quite different from the original ones as many of them we restored or reconstructed. British explorers found the lost city in the 19 century and many dagobas had fallen to the natural elements, as nature reclaimed is territory.

What is more fascinating about Anuradhapura and its extensive hydraulic system taking into account that the city was built more than 1000 years before Angkor. Some structures like the massive Jetavanaramaya dagoba which spreads on 5.6 hectares was the highest structure of the ancient word at 122 meters (it was scaled back to 70 meters afterwards).

 

Jetavanaramaya dagoba anuradhapura.

 

 

 

POLONNARUWA

Pollonnaruwa became the royal city of Ceylon Kingdom after the demise of Anuradhapura and was home of the Sinhalese kings between 1056 AD and 1236 AD. Buddhism was very strong in the Kingdom but it is still possible today to find few of Hindu temples from the earlier period.

Like Anudahapuura, Polonnaruwa had an extensive hydraulic system which survived to this day. Parakrama Samudraya (Sea of Parakrama) is the largest man-made water reservoir in the country built by King Parakramabahu. It spreads over 2500 hectares and hence even bigger the largest reservoir of West Baray in Angkor which is 1760 hectares.

 

Polonnaruwa dagoba photography tour sri lanka

 

dambulla cave buddha statue

Gal Viharaya in Polonnaruwa

 

Hatadage sri lanka Pollonnaruwa

 

 

Vatadage Polonnaruwa sri lanka Unesco

Parakrama Samudra pollonaruwa sri lanka

Parakrama Samudraya Pollonnaruwa

elephants carving Polonnaruwa

Elephants carvings in Polonnaruwa

DAMBULLA CAVE TEMPLE

 

Dambulla cave temple, also known as Rangiri Dambulla or Golden temple of Dambulla is the largest temple cave complex in Sri Lanka , originating from 3BC . Like other cave temples in Sri Lanka, these shires were occupied by hermits monks in the ancient times.

At 160 meters high, 5 caves (shrines ) close to each other, are famous for their 157 status of Lord Buddha images and wall paintings which are covering an area of 2,100 square meters. It is an active religious site and can become quite crowded especially in the smaller caves. Adding the low light to this, it is quite challenging place to take pictures.

Reclining Buddha in Dev-Raja-viharaya cave

 

Feet of the reclining Buddha in Dev-Raja-viharaya cave

 

 

 

Sri Lanka Tea Plantations

sri lanka ceylon tea plantation

Sri Lanka tea plantations: history

The history of tea plantations  (Camellia sinensis) in Sri Lanka is quite  an interesting one. After cinnamon, coffee was for 200 years was the lucrative crop on the island of Ceylon controlled by the British Empire . In 1869, crops were devastated by a fungi called Hemileia vastatrix and by 1890 nearly all crops were wiped out. After the collapse of the coffee industry, tea estates took over in Sri Lanka.

Tea from China was first introduced by British in 1824 but all really started in 1867 when Scotsman James Taylor planted tea bushes in Kandy district and found out that the climate of the central highlands (humidity, cool temperatures, rainfalls) was suitable for the production of high-quality tea. This will become the first commercial tea estate in Ceylon and tea plantations boomed 1880 onward.Plantations were taken over by the government in 1960’s and then got privatized.

Nowadays thousands of tea plantations are operating in Sri Lanka and visiting one or more will one of the highlight of your trip in Sri Lanka.

 

tea estate landscape sri lanka

Tea estate landscape

tea estate plantation sri lanka

Highlands Sri Lanka tea plantation in the evening mist

 

Tea production in Sri Lanka

tea processing sri lanka

Inside a tea factory in Sri Lanka

 

 

 

Tea is produced in 14 districts in Sri Lanka (out of 25), covering more than 200,000 hectares of land. Current annual production of tea in Sri Lanka is above 300,000 tons, making Sri Lanka the fourth largest producer of tea in the world after China, India and Kenya. It is worth noting that contrary to China which produces green tea, Sri Lanka produces mainly black tea using the orthodox method. The most intensive labor tasks are of course planting, maintaining and plucking the tea leaves. It is estimated that the tea sector employs more than 1 million people and contribute 0.9 % to the GDP in 2014.

The main planting regions are Nuwara Eliya, Dimbula, Kandy, Uda Pussellawa, Uva Province, Galle, Matara. They can be classified by their altitude: up-country (above 1,200 m) : Nuwara Eliya,Udapussellawa, Uva, Dimbula. Kandy district is considered already as mid-country (between 600 and 1,200 m). Low-country tea estates (below 600 m) such as Sabaragamuwa and Ruhuna. Interestingly, more tea is produced from the lower altitude regions than in the highlands.

 

 

Tea grading

 

 

different tea qualities sri lanka

Tea (orthodox method) grading

If you visit one of the tea factory, you will notice that the equipment is quite old but than most of the tasks of selecting and processing tea are now done by machines. Tea is graded at the factory in different qualities: BOPF (Broken Orange Pekoe Fannings Tea), mostly used in tea bags, it has bright reddish liquor and a strong taste. OP (Orange Pekoe), made of larger and twisted leaves, it has a lighter taste and golden reddish color.

Golden tips is a rare variety of Ceylon white tea made of tea leaf buds. It is an expensive grade selling at around USD 500 per kilo. Silver tips are also a premium grade of Ceylon tea made from tea leaf buds plucked by hand and dried in the sunlight.

 

 

 

 

 

black ceylon tea

Young tea buds in plantation

 

sri lanka tea plantations, tea pickers

Group of tea pluckers climbing the steep tea estate hillsides

tea picker sri lanka

Tea plucker climbing a hilly tea estate with her sack

 

 

Many of the tea pickers are women and they have the laborious task to carefully choose young tea buds which will be used in the tea processing . It is a physical job as tea bushes are grown on steep hillsides. These area can be dangerous also are prone to landslide and many snakes are live inside. There also quite a lot of work in grooming in the estates to remove by hand the herbs to to avoid the use of pesticides.

elderly tea picker sri lanka

Elderly tea plucker in the highlands

 

tea picker sri lanka

Tea worker grooming the tea bushes

 

 

 

 

Tea estates are part of the iconic landscapes of Sri Lanka and traveling by train between Kandy and Ella give a good idea of the size of their size. They are also an indefinite source of inspiration for photographers. Many companies are proposing tour where you can learn about the cultivation and processing of tea, of course you can taste different teas and by them at the shop.

 

 

tea tasting sri lanka

Ceylon black tea tasting

 

The future of Ceylon Tea

In the 21st century, tea production in Sri Lanka faces many challenges like changing weather patterns due to El Nino, difficulty to find workforce in the estate and an increasing cost of production. The labor shortage issue is nothing new and has been present since the beginning when British brought Tamil from South India to work in plantations as Sinhalese did not want to work there. Sri Lanka faces a tough competition from Kenya which also produces black tea. However tea from Sri Lanka is of high quality with unique flavors so it should stay a main player in the years to come.

ceylon tea plantation sri lanka

Morning view in the tea estate

 

ceylon black tea estate

Ceylon tea bushes in estate

Travel Tips Sri Lanka

sri lanka backpacking travel tips

 Last update: May 2024

The ongoing economic crisis, which led to Sri Lanka’s bankruptcy in 2022, has caused substantial price increases across various sectors compared to our last visit in 2019. Accommodation, transportation, and food costs have all risen significantly. Despite these challenges, traveling in Sri Lanka remains an affordable option, with numerous opportunities for backpacking and budget-friendly experiences. While the country may have lost some competitive edge when compared to popular destinations like Thailand, Vietnam, or even Cambodia, Sri Lanka continues to stand out as a unique and diverse travel destination worth exploring with its cultural triangle, tea plantations, beaches and many  wildlife spots. Drawing from our experiences during our trips to Sri Lanka in 2019 and 2024, we have compiled the following travel tips to assist you in planning an enjoyable backpacking in Sri Lanka.

 

? BACKPACKING SRI LANKA | GET YOUR VISA ONLINE

 

 

evisa sri lanka

Citizens  of Singapore, The Republic of Maldives and The Republic of Seychelles  and citizens from Czech Republic are exempt for tourist visa up to a period of 6 months.

In an effort to boost tourism, Sri Lanka introduced an eVisa fee waiver scheme in May 2024 for citizens of China, India, Indonesia, Russia, Thailand, Malaysia, and Japan. This scheme, which has been extended until further notice, grants these nationals a complimentary one-month tourist visa.

 

With the online visa you just need to  present your passport at the immigration officer as you are already on the system. Please double check that your  passport  is valid for at least 6 months upon entry to Sri Lanka. Be careful as third-party  websites exist and will come up first on Google (yes they do pay google ads…). They will charge you much more than USD 50  for a tourist visa! Be sure you order your visa on the Official Sri Lanka eVisa website, the only authorized website Government of Sri Lanka. The evisa website is operated  by IVS-GBS & VFS Global Group.

 

Official website for Sri Lanka e-visa: https://www.srilankaevisa.lk/

Visa Type Visa Fee *
30-day single entry USD 40
6 months double entry (60 days stay limit) USD 75
1 year multiple entry (90 days stay limit) USD 200
2 years multiple entry (180 days stay limit) USD 300
5 years multiple entry (180 days stay limit) USD 500
10 years multiple entry (180 days stay limit) USD 1000

* 10 or 18.50 USD service fee are charged on top of the visa fees

 

Sri Lanka visa fees history

In December 2022, Sri Lanka increased its visa fees, with the cost of a 30-day tourist visa  rising from USD 35 to USD 50.  While applying for a visa on arrival is an option, costing USD 60, the evisa  offers a slight convenience at USD 10 more expensive, allowing you to bypass the queues at the port of entry.

 

?SRI LANKA SIM CARD | BUY A LOCAL SIM CARD

 

 

During your trip in Sri Lanka, you will found out that the wifi at hotels and guesthouses is not always reliable. for this reason, it is best  to buy a local sim card and a data plan as soon as  you arrive at Colombo airport. It will also allow to be connected while you are travelling.
You will found several phone companies after the immigration and before the exit doors. Few companies exist in Sri Lanka but we recommend Dialog, we found the coverage to be good in most places we went. You can also also use their app to monitor  your consumption.  I would recommend to take the Prepaid Tourist Plan. 

Dialog on going rates as of  April 2024: 50GB data for Rs. 2,450  (USD 9) including  Rs. 250 worth of local calls and SMS, valid for 30 days (unlimited Whatsapp).

 

sri lanka dialgo mobile provider

Data packages historical data

in April 2019, a 10GB data plan with Dialog cost   Rs. 1,299 (USD 7) including Rs. 350 of local calls and SMS. Extra 10 GB  was Rs. 1,000.

 

 

 

 

? SRI LANKA BACKPACKING  BUDGET | DITCH THE HOTELS, EMBRACE HOMESTAYS

 

Homestays in Sri Lanka offer pretty  good value with single room prices in 2024 ranging from USD 10 to 20 per night, depending on the location. While breakfast is generally not included, the owners can often prepare traditional Sri Lankan breakfasts and meals for you at a cost lower than most restaurants. Not only do homestays provide affordable accommodation, but the owners can also assist you in planning your travels around the island.
You can find a wide selection of homestays listed on popular booking platforms like Booking.com or Agoda. Sometimes, using the mobile app can unlock additional discounts. Many homestays do not require a credit card for booking, allowing you to pay cash upon arrival at the guesthouse or homestay

 

 

 

 

 

? SRI LANKA BACKPACKING  BUDGET

 

When visiting Sri Lanka, be ready to spend a big part of your travel money on where you stay and what you eat. Accommodation and food costs had the highest increase between 2019 and 2024. Even though it’s not too expensive to get around the country, the cost of doing activities and seeing attractions is quite high even if their cost did not increase much since 2019. So make sure you save a good amount of your travel budget for your hotel, food, and any sightseeing or experiences you want to do.

 

? ATTRACTIONS AND ACTIVITIES

Among the attractions in Sri Lanka, activities and sightseeing are  most costly options. You can see the table below with prices of three famous sites in Sri Lanka. Owing to the depreciation of the Sri Lankan rupee against the US dollar (with 1 USD equating 180 LKR in 2019 and 300 in 2024), the prices quoted in LKR have effectively doubled. Overall, over 5 years, the increase of price has been reasonable. Lion’s rock in Sigiriya, an UNESCO site, is  especially expensive.

 

Attraction 2019 price (LKR) 2024 price (LKR)
Botanical Garden Peradeniya (Kandy) 1500  (USD 8.5) 3000 LKR (USD 10)
Pidurangala rock Sigiriya 500 (USD 3) 1000 (USD 3.5)
Lion’s rock Sigiriya USD 30 USD 36

 

? TAXES AND SERVICE CHARGE ON FOOD AND DRINKS

 

Many places charge now for taxes (10 to 25.5%)

Compared to 2019, there has been a significant change regarding taxes and service charges at restaurants in 2024. Many establishments now include service charges and taxes on top of the listed food and drink prices. This additional amount can be quite substantial, reaching as high as 25.5% . Some restaurants opt for a more modest 10% service charge. Being aware of these added fees is crucial to avoid surprises when planning for your budget !.

 

 

Solo Backpacker Budget in Sri Lanka in 2024 (accommodation + food + drinks)  US 35 to USD 50 a day

? SRI LANKA BACKPACKERS | TAKE ADVANTAGE OF  SRI LANKA RAILWAY SYSTEM

 

With more than  1500 km of railway is a very convenient, cheap  and scenic transportation  to go from one point to another. However, trains do not cover all the island like as for example there is no direct railway link between  Ella and Matara.

 

 

Sri Lanka train map 

 

Even if it is a slow mode of transport, travelling by train in Sri Lanka can be an enjoyable experience. Certain routes like  Kandy- Ella have become immensely popular among tourists and reservations are highly recommended. You can check  timetables and fares on the website of Sri Lanka Railways or here. We did not tried to online booking but you can buy your ticket at the station one or two days before.

 

 

sri lanla railway ticket counter

 

 

taking the coast line train to Colombo

 

 

? SRI LANKA TRAVEL TIPS| TUK TUK, BUS OR CAR?

 

Tuk-Tuks (also called three-wheelers) are very popular in Sri Lanka for short but also long distance  journeys.  The difficulty for a traveller arriving in a city for the first time, is to know the  standard fare or a journey and of course if you get a tuk tuk in a touristic city you have a lot of chance to overpay.

As soon as you have your sri lanka sim card installed in your smartphone,  you can download the app called PickMe, a taxi hailing app with which you book  tuk tuk, nano and a whole range of cars, even vans. Although you can install pickme from your home country, drivers always call to confirm the ride, so it will be an issue once you are in Sri Lanka. PickMe and Uber have similar rates but we had some issues with Uber with drivers calling or messaging wanted to negotiate a rate.

During our trip we found the following rates:

PickMe fares rate (2024): 70 to 75 Rs per kilometer.

Uber fares rate (2024): 70 to 75 Rs per kilometer.

These numbers are a good baseline for you to estimate fares knowing the distance to cover to be sure you do not overpay especially if you hail a tuk-tuk from a street.

Buses are the cheapest way to go around the island with extensive connectivity across Sri Lanka, including to smaller towns and cities where trains may not reach. However it is good to know also that traveling by bus in Sri Lanka is generally considered safe, but road accidents are common. Bus journeys  can be very bumpy and uncomfortable due to the rough roads and heavy crowds. Additionally, most buses rely on small fans for ventilation rather than air conditioning systems.

Traveling by private car is significantly more expensive, with rates ranging from 120 to 140 Sri Lankan rupees per kilometer. However, if you are a group of more than two travelers, hiring a car in Sri Lanka can still be a viable and cost-effective option.

Private car rate (2024): 120 to 140 Rs per kilometer.

 

Bus fares  per kilometer are very affordable, and unlike train fares, they  are consistent regardless of the destination’s distance from the point of origin.

 

Bus fares rate (2024): 3.5 to 4 Rs per kilometer.

 

 

tuk tuk sri lanka

 

 

 

?️ SRI LANKA TRAVEL TIPS | STAY AWAY FROM THE CROWDS

 

It is not difficult in Sri Lanka to stay away  from the crowd. It is worth it, not only for activities and scenic spots but also for food.  Food prices in the  center of Ella and Fort Galle are much expensive than in other less touristic  town. Try to find a place a bit away from the main street or ask your hotel or homestay what are their meal options.

 

? SRI LANKA TRAVEL TIPS | SRI LANKA TOURISM STATISTICS 2024

Source: www.sltda.gov.lk

For Q1 2024, Europe dominated as a top visitors to Sri Lanka, accounting for a significant portion of the 784,651 total arrivals during this period. Russia led the way (14 % of total arrivals)  followed by United Kingdom and other countries like Germany and France. India remains the top visiting country visiting Sri Lanka during the first 4 months of 2024 with 16% of the total visitors.

When looking at month-to-month figures, March saw the peak with over 209,000 arrivals, Arrivals dropped over 28% in April versus March, suggesting vacationers aimed to travel earlier in the year. January represented the lowest figure of the four months. From a regional perspective, North America (U.S. and Canada) represented only  40,278 of the arrivals with is just above 5% of the total.

2024 Q1  numbers  reveal a promising 78% increase in global tourist arrivals compared to the same period in 2023. Using 2018’s pre-pandemic levels as a benchmark, the data indicates Sri Lanka’s tourism recovery is faring particularly well so far, with arrival numbers representing 88% of what the island nation previously experienced.

 

Sri Lanka Photography Tips: 10 Expert Secrets for Better Pictures

tips to take better pictures in Sri Lanka by Laurent Dambies
Sri Lanka offers an impressive number of photo locations for photography enthusiasts and travelers, both on and off the beaten path.In the morning, you can take photos of the sun rising behind a fog-shrouded mountain, and in the evening witness capture a vibrant red sunset at the beach. We hope these 10 photography tips will help you in taking better pictures on your trip in Sri Lanka.

1. CHECK THE WEATHER

Sri Lanka’s diverse climate and location make it an ideal destination for photographers all year round. With two monsoons each year – southwestern monsoon from May to September, and northeastern monsoon from October to February – the country’s weather can be unpredictable, particularly in the highlands. For up-to-date weather forecasts, visit the website of the Sri Lanka Department of Meteorology.

tea estate plantation sri lanka

 

 

2. TAKE THE TRAIN

No trip to Sri Lanka is complete without taking at least one train ride. This adventure is highly recommended as it provides numerous opportunities for photographers. Additionally, it is the most economical mode of transportation for reaching various locations throughout the island. It’s also a favorite among locals, making it an excellent choice for people photography.

The Kandy-Ella train journey, in particular, is incredibly scenic as it passes through mountains and tea plantations. We suggest traveling in second or third class to get access the exit doors and windows. Similarly, the coastal train ride offers breathtaking views, especially a few kilometers south of Colombo, where the train runs just a few feet away from the crashing waves.

So, don’t miss the chance to embark on an unforgettable train journey in Sri Lanka and capture some stunning photographs along the way.

 

taking the coast line train to Colombo

sri lanka blue train

sri lanka riding open door

 

 

 

3. BEAT THE CROWD

While Sri Lanka has some locations with relatively less tourists, some popular destinations like Kandy, Ella, and Fort Galle often attract large numbers of visitors. To make the most of your experience in these places, we suggest waking up early to capture stunning photographs of these hotspots before the crowds arrive.

 

nine arch bridge ella

 

 

4. HIKE THOSE TRAILS

Sri Lanka offers numerous hiking trails suitable for individuals with varying fitness levels. Some of the most renowned trails include Adam’s Peak, Ella’s Peak, and the Knuckles mountain range. These locations offer breathtaking views of the landscape, particularly during sunrise when the mist is still present, providing a unique opportunity for capturing stunning photographs.

 

little adams peak in Ella

Top of Little Adam’s Peak in Ella

 

Shadow of Adam’s peak (Sri Pada) at sunrise

 

sigiriya sunrise mist sri lanka photography tour

Golden light at sunrise with mist in Sigiriya

 

5. TRAVEL LIGHT

 

As  you will likely be walking and hiking frequently during your stay, we would highly recommend bringing a small bag to carry your photo gear. It doesn’t necessarily need to be a photo backpack, but it should be padded  enough to protect your equipment while you’re on the move. Given that some hikes can last several hours, it’s also important to be selective with the gear you bring along.

 

tea estate workers sri lanka

Tea estate workers in the highlands

 

 

6. TAKE A LONG LENS

Because of the many photography opportunities available in Sri Lanka, a wide lens or a standard zoom lens might not enough. A long lens (300 mm or more) is recommended for wildlife photography but also for landscape photography to isolate details.

sigiriya rock sri lanka

Sigiriya rock fortress at sunrise

 

Bahirawakanda Vihara Buddha Statue in Kandy at sunset

 

 

7. PREPARE YOUR SHOTS

For landscape photography, we recommend to use TPE (The Photographer’s Ephemeris), available as paid app for Android and IOS and free on a web browser. For train shots, have a look at the timetable as even if the trains do not run fast, you have only few seconds to be on the right spot. Be aware than they can run up to 30 minutes late.

 

passenger train on the demodara bridge in Ella town

Passenger train on the Demodara nine arch bridge in Ella

 

train passing on the nine arch bridge in ella

Passenger train on the Demodara nine arch bridge in Ella

 

 

8. CHECK THE CALENDAR OF FESTIVITIES AND NATIONAL HOLIDAYS

Many people in Sri Lanka are following Buddhism so the Sihanese New Year celebrated during the month of April is a major holiday. This can disrupt your travel plans but also give some unique photo opportunities. For photography there are some festivals like the famous Esala Perahera festival taking place in Kandy during the month of August.

 

fort galle church

Dutch Reformed Church in Galle Fort

 

9. GET CREATIVE WITH ND FILTERS

ND (neutral density) filters block a fraction of the light coming into the camera sensor and thus allow you to have longer exposure times during the day. It is particular suitable for waterfalls and seascapes, and Sri Lanka has plenty of those!

Unless you a shooting in low light conditions (sunrise or sunset) where a ND8 filter could be enough (3-stops reduction), be prepare to use a very dark filter during the day. In the pictures below, a 10-stops reduction filter was used (also called ND1000).

 

sea scape with rocks on the large of Fort Galle Sri Lanka

Tropical beach Sri Lanka long exposure

 

 

 

10. TAKE A SMALL TRIPOD

If you do not carry a fiber carbon tripod, I recommended to take with you a steady and small tripod for long exposure shots. It is even better if you add a fluid head.

 

photography workshop sri lanka